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Process

From a fallen tree to a table that stays flat.

Most of what makes a live edge piece last happens before anyone picks up a sander. Here is the whole road.

  1. Rack of live edge walnut and cherry slabs in a workshop

    Source

    Nothing is logged for us. Our slabs come from urban removals, storm falls and orchards being cleared, all milled within a hundred kilometres of the shop. We buy whole logs when we can, so book-matched pairs stay together.

  2. Craftsman working long pine planks at a workbench

    Dry

    Green wood moves. Slabs sit stickered under cover for a year per inch of thickness, then finish in a dehumidification kiln until they hold steady at seven percent. It is the least glamorous step and the one that decides whether a table stays flat.

  3. Craftsman taping the seam of a walnut slab before a resin pour

    Flatten & fill

    A router sled takes the slab flat, then hand planes take it smooth. Bark is peeled, the edge is wire-brushed, and voids are stabilised with tinted resin so they stay part of the story without catching crumbs.

  4. Hands pushing a hand plane across a board with curled shavings

    Join & shape

    Breadboard ends, butterfly keys, through-tenons: the joinery is chosen for how the wood will move, not how it photographs. Seats and edges are shaped with adze, travisher and spokeshave.

  5. Hands sanding a block of pale wood by hand

    Finish

    Sanded to 180, raised with water, sanded again. Three coats of hardwax oil, hand-rubbed, with a day between each. The finish is food-safe, matte, and repairable at your kitchen table with a rag.

Care

Wipe with a damp cloth. Re-oil once a year, or when water stops beading.

Movement

Solid wood breathes with the seasons. Expect a millimetre or two. That is the tree, not a fault.

Repair

Scratches sand out. Dents steam out. If something serious happens, bring it back and we will refinish it.